Blog
Running in the Roar of the Wind
What I learned cycling 1.200km across New Zealand
As a youth, I didn’t always fit in and struggled with my emotions. Cycling was my escape, my way of running from life and exploring the world. At the time I didn’t understand the relationships between exercise, endorphins and major depressive disorders–I just knew it gave me control, independence and the feeling of the wind on my face. It also allowed me to see places I couldn’t otherwise see, and doesn’t every child want to be an explorer?
Over the years my relationship with cycling has ebbed and flowed; however, after I got sober in 2019, I was looking for positive outlets to focus my energy into and I found cycling again. A few years later, in 2023, my life changed dramatically again with international relocation, the breakdown of a major relationship and work stressors. Cycling took an even larger presence in my life as I focused on the things that bring me joy and value to my life. Cycling became a form of meditation and therapy for me. It gave me that same control, independence (mostly from work and phone notifications this time) and those positive endorphins I craved as a child. I started prioritising cycling trips and regular rides, even if just a coffee shop spin. Around this same time, I also discovered a song called “Running in the Roar of the Wind” and have somewhat adopted it as a life mantra. It too became the mantra of this trip.
Crossing the South Island of New Zealand from top to bottom, I spent just under two weeks tasting the flesh of fresh crisp apples, tiny pears and plump cherries from trees in the wild, riding alongside running wild cattle at sunset and battling gale force headwinds, rain and hail. I froze and I burned. I saw bulls lock horns and battle for dominance while herds of cows, sheep and goats cared for their offspring. Waking in vacant fields to watch the sun rise gave me purpose, freedom and an appreciation for what I was experiencing. Using my body to transport me across the country gave me pride and strength.
Over the years I’ve learned that bikepacking (and New Zealand in particular) require balanced emotions, controlled responses, determination and resilience. You need to approach each day as its own, with its own unique set of puzzle and problems. But at its core, your day is simple,: you just pedal and let the world spin. If you lean in, you learn in a unique way about the terrain and the local biosphere. You spend hours embedded in the local landscape, embracing it and adapting to it. It will give you everything back that you give to it and so much more.
Pushing uphill for hours over rutted roads takes grit. Giving yourself grace when you can’t push anymore takes kindness. Running in the Roar of the Wind takes persistence.
Knowing when to stop is also crucial, and at 1,200 km my journey prematurely came to an end with a knee injury after slipping in a fjord. I wanted to continue on, use this as an example of resilience and persistence, but that would risk further injury and time off the bike; it would risk time away from my therapy.
I tossed and turned between pushing on or taking what I’d learned and moving on. Letting go. As someone diagnosed with clinical OCD, non-completion of designated tasks can be a huge challenge to me, but in the spirit of the trip, I let this go. At first, I was disappointed; this wasn’t Running in the Roar of the Wind; it was giving up. I purchased a knee brace, took ibuprofen and tried to push on another day–it was easier terrain than the previous day after all. With every pedal stroke, I felt the irritation rise in my knee and I felt the disquiet in my brain as it received signals that something was wrong. It became so very clear I needed to listen to my body, to stop and recalculate.
In the end, I turned and headed home, grateful for everything I had learned and all the bicycle had given me. This means I didn’t officially “tick” the route off and would make my ride in some eyes a “failure”. I’ll never view it this way though. This choice prevented further injury, allowing me to keep cycling another day.
This has been an amazing journey of connection with nature and the landscape of the South Island of New Zealand, from desolate alpine passes and stunning glacial lakes to the flat Canterbury plains with their rich agriculture history, and everything in between. I ate local dark chocolate thousands of feet above the ground in a cool breeze and watched the sun set over desolate farmlands. It was a journey spent focusing on my breath, on my cadence and on being present in the moment. This reinforced in me not to be a fair-weather cyclist, but to keep Running in the Roar the Wind, embracing the rain and treasuring the warming sun and cooling moon when they offer their guidance. Finding joy in all of it.
Cycling is therapy and can save your life; it saved mine. Keep Running in the Roar of the Wind.
Bikepacking Pack List
Bike
Jamis ‘steel is real’ Renegade
Vitoria Mezcal’s 650x2.2
Hunt x Mason hoops
Garbaruk 11 speed 32x11-52
Grx 812
Easton ec90sl
Extra wide flare bars with double wrap for cushion
Sleeping System
Marmot Trestles Elite Eco 30 Sleeping Bag (3 °C)
SeatoSUmmit Ultralight Air Sleeping Mat
Nemo Fillow Elite Pillow
Outdoor Research Helium Bivy or NatureHike Cloud Up2
Storage
Apidura frame bag
Stealth Heaphy roll system with SeatoSummit 13L dry bag
Restrap Snack bags
Rock bros top tube bag
Revelate Terrapin saddle bag
Clothes
Rain jacket – Gore tex shake dry
Long sleeve mid layer – macpac synthetic
Patagonia nano puff synthetic jacket
Jersey – Cheap old jersey
Bib shorts – Rapha explore with pockets
Socks – 2 pairs of Pedla socks
Waterproof socks – Sealskinz
Cycling gloves - Gore
Leg warmers – synthetic
Arm warmers – synthetic
Buff
Camp long John’s
Camp Birkenstocks
Camp underwear
Camp shorts
Cooking/eating/drinking
2.5L Apidura frame bladder
HydraPak Water filter – with 2L HydraPak collapsible bladder
Stove
Gas – 100ml
Cooking pot – 500ml
Spoon
Tool kit and spares
Multi tool with chain breaker and spare links
Tyre plugs and tool
Spare tube x 1
Gloves
Wax
Patches – stick on
Spare derailleur
Spare cleat bolts
Spare bolts assorted
Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste
Hand sanitiser
Small soap
Compostable wet wipes
Nurofen / panadol / goodys / assorted meds
First aid
Snake bandage
2 x large wound patches
Sports tape
Large blister patches
Electronics
Garmin InReach Messenger
Garmin Edge 540 Solar
Fuiifilm xt20 (3 batteries)
GoPro 11 (3 batteries)
DJI mini 4 pro (3 batteries)
Powerbank - 10,000 MaH
Assorted USB cords
Wallwart
King Alfred’s Way
Day 1
“Dan, wake up it’s time for the adventure of a lifetime” said Chris with a excited sing song quality in his voice, as he gently knocked on the door of his spare room - where he had kindly allowed me to stay after my work finished in London the day prior. I’d overslept my alarm badly and missed his earlier knocking - it was time to go.
A short spin to Waterloo through quiet London streets and we were on the train to Farnham to begin our adventure on King Alfred’s Way.
Quiet streets and hedgerows gave way to sandy tracks along fields and ridges. Chris lost his balance multiple times in the sand leading to a lot of laughter as he stared at me while toppling sideways, still clipped in.
We tore through devil’s punch bowl, sliding around in the sand and laughing as we passed groups of dog walkers enjoying their Sunday. Sadly it was here I got a flat tyre and we realized we didn’t have any tyre levers. Nothing some credit card tricks can’t handle though. Magyver. We had to inflate the tyre four times as it kept losing air when unscrewing the pump, and subsequently the loose air valve. Finally, with a screwdriver for traction on the valve, we saw success and continued on to lunch at the Deer Inn hotel. Turns out compressed watermelon and hot chips are not a sufficient meal for a long cycling adventure. More on that later.
Some rattling descents and small climbs along the beautiful South Downs Way led us close to Winchester. Just outside of town, we joined the A road to make camp in town. I had spent lunch telling Chris I was yet to experience the elusive “bonk” where a cyclist depletes their glycogen and energy stores and hits a “wall”. I well and truly spent the afternoon “bonking” and struggling to keep up with Chris. When we finally joined the A road to dip into town I heard the horrible sound of a hissing tyre, another puncture to end a rough day for me.
After some roadside mechanical work, we reached town, greeted by the statue of King Alfred himself. We stopped in a local pub for dinner and drinks before spending the night in a historic local hotel with parts that dated back to the 16th Century.
Day 2
A good night’s sleep can solve most things. I woke rested but sore, as expected. Today was sure to be an easier day. Briefly, we resupplied spare tubes, tyre levers and patches and prayed for fewer issues today.
We’d heard the stretch from the previous day was the most technical of the entire route so emboldened by this information we set off with Maryborough in our sights.
The majority of today’s terrain was very hospitable, from older country roads lined with hedgerows to small rural tracks and walking paths.
One of the jewels in the crown of King Alfred’s Way would have to be Stonehenge. We made a very short detour to visit this landmark. There was something truly absurd about cycling up a track in the fields to be mere meters from the monoliths.
We stopped briefly for a quick pub lunch at The Olf Castle just outside Salisbury. I heeded my learnings from the day before and feasted while enjoying a spread of English fizzy drinks.
The Ridgeway was truly beautiful albeit a little windy. The famous white horse appeared as we closed in the final quarter of the day, with spirits high we decided to make a final stop for ice cream, drinks and other snacks just outside Tilshead.
We found a camp just off route in Marlborough at Postern Hill. A nice steep climb to end the day. We checked in, pitched the tent and made for town in search of food.
After a glorious Indian feast, we made our way back to the campsite for an early night. It appears we’d both forgotten just how tough that hill was with a few days lingering in the legs.
Day 3
Given Chris’ recent hand surgery and the likelihood of today's off-road-hand-shattering quota being high, we made the call to cut across to somewhere we could catch the train back to London. Some things are just not worth pushing on and I’d hate for Chris to set back his healing for a cycling trip.
We decided to go via Hungerford so I could the village where my mother was born. Descending the hill from Postern Hill one last time Chris took the front and laid down a blistering pace with me just holding on in his slipstream. This continued the whole way to Hungerford.
From Hungerford we took lightly trafficked back rounds to Newbury - where my mum attended school. A short train to London Paddington and a quick cycle across the city on our dusty bikes and our adventure was over.
Footnote: Chris has been a friend for over a decade, but we don’t see each other for more than a few days at a time, every few years. It was so lovely to stay in his home with his lovely partner Karma and their anxious, bubbly, and affectionate sidekick Fin, the rescue dog. I’ll always treasure this time and trip. I can never repay the kindness shown to me in a time of incredible uncertainty in my life. Thank you.
Chris also took photos on our trip which I’ve included below for my own vanity and mostly because he has an incredible eye.
HUNT500
The morning was crisp in Omeo as nerves bubbled under the surface. Final checks, buckles fastened and straps tightened one final time.
Day 1 - Omeo to Benambra (100km, 1977el)
The morning was crisp in Omeo as nerves bubbled under the surface. Final checks, buckles fastened and straps tightened one final time.
We started the morning with a coffee at the local spot and chatted with a few of the guys we met the night before at the hilltop hotel - a known haunt for HUNT riders around halfway through the HUNT 1000.
We left town and began a lovely 50km of gentle road climbing through farmlands as we left the valley and climbed towards the hills. After 2hrs we reached Glen Wills where we stayed a little long at the wilderness retreat chatting with Dan Hunt (race organiser) and other riders - Gwin, Baz, Rob, Peter, and Scott the Englishman again.
Leaving Glen Wills confident we began a decent forestry climb which we slowly ground up until we reached some extremely sketchy descents with deep ruts, and very slippery dry gravel. A small crash caused my handlebars to tip forward, unbeknownst to me until the base of the descent. I knew something felt off.
Feeling pretty broken and my groin causing a lot of pain we pushed on. A lovely suspension bridge crossing the Mitta Mitta River and some gravelly hot climbing out of the riverbed. Cracked.
A gentle 20km on road to town feeling tired and lightheaded. So this is the Hunt.
Arrived at the Benambra hotel to the three girls, the older guys, and a smattering of others enjoying some drinks and food. We camped in the grass carpark while others took rooms. Rain was predicted but stayed away.
Day 2 - Benambra to Geehi hi Flats (103.2km, 2167el)
We were the last out of camp today. Sorry, Matt!
Overall a really lovely day. Some good road miles to knock the ks down. Starting with a climb out of Gee-hi Flats and headed along fairly gentle undulating trails for the majority of the day.
Small glimpses of snow-capped mountains taunted us in the distance all day with the promise of Mt Kosciuszko National Park ahead.
We followed a stunning red road that cut through the burned valleys of dead trees as we wound up the valleys until we reached a lunch stop, high amongst the logging camps. Peanut butter smashed sandwich with a protein bar and lollies. Grim.
Some gentle flats and rolling hills through the logging roads and camps before dropping down to Tom Groggin. Saw a small family of three emus in the field.
We took a lovely suspension bridge to cross the border into NSW and finally Mt Kosciuszko National Park ahead.
A gradual but decent climb up Alpine Way to make camp at Gee-hi flats. Worth it. Lovely spot with kangaroos and a lovely river just outside the tent.
Have seen many lovely birds the last few days - rosellas, cockatoos and blue-faced finches however Brumbies have still evaded us.
Gee-hi Flats to Bradley and Obrien’s Hut (76.1km 2394el)
We broke camp early but frustratingly couldn’t dry our tents and were forced to pack them damp and heavy. Lots of climbing ahead, it’s going to be a tough day.
We left camp and started a gentle climb through a lovely valley. At the top of this valley, we had a long and fast descent to the river below. What goes down must go up and an extremely long, hot and beautiful climb awaited on the other side of the valley. This section went for hours but was less than 20km.
We then dropped down the range to Major Clews, unfortunately missing the hut which is famed to be lovely.
Today’s ride saw us pass a lot of Snowy Hydro pipes coming down into Khancoban, as wide as houses, two at a time. It’s incredible to see the potential and volume of the water.
A small cafe/general store awaited us in Khancoban - Amazing. Had coffee, crackers, salsa, and beans on bread. Washed off Zinc and sunscreen everywhere. Reapplied.
We then began climbing, through fern gullies at first. This went on for hours. The roads all cut into the mountains long ago to transport workers to snowy, what an incredibly large and intensive project.
We started to see the ferns turn to tall gums, 20m++. As we reached the peaks the gums were spindly, burned and wind smashed. So many alpine flowers and lovely streams.
Final push to camp up 300m elevation as the rain started and the black clouds closed in. Luckily the rain never eventuated and we ate with the largest group yet, high amongst Kosciuszko National Park at the highest point of our adventure.
My tent was wet from this morning still which panicked me but it dried out quickly near the fire.
Stunning sunset, great chat with Dom and Sarah. They’re planning to go to the same town as everyone else tomorrow then on to “Jack and Jill” just leaving a 77km day for Sat. At least the bulk of elevation is behind us now.
Day 4 - Bradley and Obrien’s Hut to Adaminaby (73.5km, 1466el)
We woke to a very cold morning on top of Kosciuszko and a lot of activity at camp but the promise of a shorter and easier day than those before.
On the bikes the day started with a small climb up to the highest point of the ride, just above camp, before a long winding descent to a Tumut Pond Reservoir (part of Snowy Hydro) and then a long but beautiful climb up the other side - what took less than 15 minutes to descend was over an hour to climb back out of.
Passing Cabramurra (closed to the public - Snowy Hydro employees only) we rode some undulating descents to Sawyers Hut in the middle of a beautiful valley. A slow lunch at the hut with a toilet and water was very civilized.
Following lunch, we did some busy highway riding with many Snowy Hydro 2.0 trucks. Luckily only 1.5 hours to Adaminaby. Cows gave way to sheep and trucks gave way to tradies in high-vis and pints at the local pub. We ate dinner at the pub as a rainstorm came in. Everyone hid in their tents and called it an early night.
Day 5 - Adaminaby to Tharwa
Woke up in the morning to see that Adrian had rolled in late last night, 10 pm he said. Still smiling and lovely. His fat bike must be slow but it didn’t seem to dampen his spirits, what a lovely guy.
Rolling farmlands climbed the valley out of Adaminaby before gravel quickly took hold.
Lots of sandy muddy marshlands and woodland trails, really differing but meant slow progress. Tired legs, slow sand, and heat.
Frank and Jill hut for lunch beautiful. Somewhat creepy and desolate but others showed up including Drew which was awesome to see - his knee was still intact!
We pushed on after some lunch and it was long before we hit the road where a trail angel had left us a can of coke which we shared. Some small road climbs and long descents and we were in farmlands full of sheep and cows including highland cows. So many flocks of Cockatoos, Galahs, Corellas, and King Parrot’s. Still no Brumbies but we did see Alpacas.
The campsite was nice with big showers and toilets as well as a smalll kitchenette in a shipping container. Another early night - so tired.
Day 6 - Canberra
An easy road roll into the outskirts of Canberra. Lots of lovely birds this morning - Rosellas, Correllas and Galahs as well as big flocks of Cockatoos.
The route then guided us through Canberra’s suburbs on predominantly single-track and horse trails. A warm morning meant a push for the city before it got too hot.
As we came closer to the city we could see Parliament House and popped out at the famous Lake Burnley Griffin track for a quick victory lap of the capital before finishing at Capital Brewing in Fishwyck.
BrisDivide Mini
My BrisDivide 'Mini' 2022 experience was nothing short of amazing. Testing, challenging and exciting.
My BrisDivide 'Mini' 2022 experience was nothing short of amazing. Testing, challenging and exciting.
Sadly, the event was essentially canceled on Day 1 due to course conditions and weather as a major weather event closed in on the Darling Downs. Below is my experience.
7:00
We started out with some smooth bitumen to get out of town before transitioning to "champagne gravel" (smooth gravel roads), rolling hills and cow farms.
11:00
Word spread that the mighty Condamine River was in flood and dangerous, if not impossible to cross. Some pushed on while the majority including me chose to take the official alternative which was the same length but around 1,000m of additional climbing on some very rough rainforest trails with heavy mud, downed trees, stinging trees and wait a while vines. We knew this would add hours to our trip.
14:00
We left the forest and descended into Killarney to end-stage 1. I ate a handful of hot chips as we heard that some of the upcoming terrains was closed and impassable. We spoke with the event organizer who said we should take alternate routes but could continue on.
15:00
Stuck in mud, mid calf depth, we pushed our bikes until the clay was so thick they wouldn’t move any further. At this point we had to take wheels off and spend 1hr + removing mud, grass and clay so we could continue.
We then ran into the race manager again who advised it was looking bleak and we should consider turning back. I didn’t come this far to turn back.
16:00
We powered on as the rain set in, light at first but transitioning to hail as lightning and thunder lit the sky. We heard the event was canceled.
17:00
I decided to continue cycling with another guy, Brian - to the Goomburra Hall. We chose this location as it touted hot water and some shelter.
19:00
We rode for another few hours as the roads flooded, our lights died and our drinking water supply ran out, only to arrive at the Hall to it closed.
We pitched our tents at the back of the hall and got some rest.
